Electrical and Electronics panels - Order restored.

While the DC distribution system was well done from the factory, many additions and some modifications had been made with a great deal of wiring haphazardly added to the cabinet.  The entire space was reconfigured over 23/25, and is now orderlly, well-labelled and safe.  It should now be reliable and easy to troubleshoot.  

Sakura is 435/6 and was built in 2001. For the time, the design and execution of the original electrical wiring and panels was excellent versus most I’ve seen, and the space available is generous.  That said, needs/wants have changed over time and some DIY-calibre additions had been made and Sakura was due for a re-think and refit of her electrical infrastructure.
Most of the electrical and electronic/instrumentation systems converge and are controlled at the navigation station, where the DC switch/breaker panel is located alongside the AC panel.   

DC Wiring and Panel Revisions

The factory wiring is neatly laid out with each circuit identified by push on numerical wire markers.  It is well documented in the original drawings, though OE part numbers/details are not provided.

The objectives of the work done on the DC distibution system were:

• identify and remove substandard, unsafe or potentially unreliable wiring.
• Seperate AC, DC and instrumentation circuits where possible.  
• Ensure each circuit is properly secured, fused and identified
• Consolidate fuses in a single location, standardizing on ATO/ATC fuses.
• Create an uncluttered  layout that is intuitive to use and straightforward to troubleshoot 
• Incorporate the new instrumentation and upgrades into a well-secured, identified, and intuitive layout with capacity for future revisions.  
• Revise the switch and instrument panel to simplify use, reduce clutter and reverse some of the "home handyman" modifications.

All of the previous owner-upgrades were removed and rerouted, rewired and labelled. This is time-consuming but I was able to correct several issues/inconsistencies and consolidate fuses, remove excess wire, and repair poor terminations typical in older boats. Wiring is now labelled, simple, logical, and secured.  All fuses are consolidated in two ATC/ATO fuse blocks, one for navigational instruments, controlled by switch 10 on the panel and the other, 24/7, which will power the various alarm systems.  A final mod will be to move entertainment and communications to switch #13, feeding a seperate 4cct fuse block.  

Toggle switches had been added to the woodwork surrounding the switch panel over time as needs arose, and some were relocated from the main cabinetwork/panel to a new switch panel concealed inside the little drop-front cabinet above the chart table. This prevents inadvertent operation of things like alarms or AIS modes, and will further declutter the cabinetwork. This concealed panel is easy to replace or modify in future without damaging any visible cabinetwork.

Unlabelled toggle switches had also been added to the drop down nav instrument panel, where the MFD, Stereo, and VHF reside. This panel was replaced, a new stereo and VHF installed, and those switches will be relocated to the concealed panel. Detailed below.

As discussed below and in a seperate post, all of the interior lighting is now consolidated on switch 12, simplifying operation. This freed two 12v breaker/switches, one of which will control entertainment/communications, leaving the other as a spare.

The main harness bundles are secured, using large releasable cable ties and rugged screwed-on mouting stands, replacing the original small adhesive-mount pieces. This is a detail well worth the minimal extra effort.

The NMEA2000 cables are all new, and are generally located across the top of the space, seperate from any other wiring. You can see two four port splitters stacked in the photo. The old Raytheon NMEA0183 network has been removed. Each NMEA2000 cable is labelled, and a diagram and description of the the nework is found here.

The Cobham Sailor Fleet one control  box had been mounted in this space and will be relocated to below teh nav station

Other Functionality

An additional switch panel was installed in the drop front cabinet.  This will include switches for 

• AIS ON-OFF-STEALTH
• SAT. ON/OFF/router only
• AOC vhf auto fm
• Alarms on/off 

The photo shows mounting cleats being installed, with the switch panel at the lower left.  The installation is now complete and there is a 12”x5.75” blank panel closing the right hand side of the cabinet, awaiting some future use. 

Identification and Labelling

The panel was relabeled, and all of the wiring I touched was labelled. This Brady printer is excellent for this purpose, though there are some limitations with respect to font sizes.   The labels shown in the printer are those used for the OVNI switch panel, and look "factory".  Those on the right are the wire labels.  These are particularly good, much better than the Brother P-touch labels I used in Windstar.    

Navigation and Communications Panel

I have replaced the aged stereo with a narrower Fusion RA670. This left a gaping hole in the already abused drop-down panel at the nav station. Conveniently, there was a piece of the appropriate plywood aboard, so was able cut a matching replacement panel with a layout of my choosing. It occurred to me that this is the perfect time to also upgrade the RAY53 VHF to one with NMEA2000 connections and dual station capability, so I have purchased a Standard Horizon GX1850B and SSM70H RAM4 remote mic. The GX1850 does NOT come with panel mount brakcets. The MMB-97 bracket kit must be ordered seperately. The RAM 4 remote mic comes with a cable that is long enough to reach the steering pedestal. It is not necesary to buy an extension cable.
I likely overthought the layout. Everything is a bit higher than it was, and hopefully the chartplotter is now aligned with bottom edge of the breaker panels. The stereo is still located above the VHF because the hanging mic cable might otherwise have interfered with the stereo’s control knob. The mic can now be hung beside the stereo, much higher than before, which ensures that the cable is neither interfering with the stereo, nor resting on the chart table. The spacing between the devices should now be equal. (As I read this later,  I can confirm that I overthought it...)

Prior posts and musings on this subject

One of the items aboard is a vintage UK OTA TV amplifier.  I'll probably remove that along with the other cabling that remains.

Before:

• 

 Owner-added Toggle Switches

There are 7 toggle switches that were added by the prior owner.  Some of these could be replaced by the now surplus breakers, and some can be hidden in a separate switch panel.  

The 7 owner-added toggle switches include:

At breaker panel

1. nav lights - (pulpit/off/masthead) this is adjacent to the breaker for this circuit so it will remain there.  Not sure why it needed an "off" position.
2. Gas Detector (on/off)   to relocate to companionway with other alarms, or in the new switch panel.  I would think these alarms should be on a 24/7 circuit, and controlled as a group.  
3. Silence - (on/off) this disables the transmit function only for the  AIS transponder:   A separate switch is not required for this functionality.
4. AIS (on/off)  To be relocated to a concealed switch panel, using a DPDT centre off switch.  This will combine switches 3 and 4.  
5. Fuel Gauge (Port/off/stbd)  This is adjacent to the breaker for this circuit so it will remain there.
• strange that there is only one fuel gauge, and that a toggle switch was added.   I suspect that the BMV 712 replaced the second fuel gauge, necessitating the selector switch.   Strange given that there is a now-redundant voltmenter on the panel, which could have been replaced, but perhaps the BMV didn't fit that opening.    (Black ones are available.)  It may be possible to reinstall the original fuel gauge and reolcate the BMV712. 

Beside VHF  

1. Sat Comm.   (on/off)   This turns the Cobham sat system on
• This will be relocated
2. AVO  (on/off/on) This toggles the VHF/FM antenna between sources or automatic mode. Likely AIS/vhf.  Not sure what’s become of the FM antenna, though there’s a cut-off piece of coax in the PS cockpit locker.   The radio seems to work fine.  
• These two switches will both be relocated to a concealed switch panel.

So, 5 of 7 switches will be relocated, and two of those combined,  further reducing both visual clutter and the potential for inadvertent operation.  

The horizontal drop down cabinet contains a length of finger duct and was used only to store some junk items. An acrylic switch panel could easily be installed inside this cabinet, hidden behind the door. This would hide any switches installed there, and the panel could easily be reconfigured as needs change, without butchering any woodwork.  

Based on scaling the 40mm hinge in the above photo, the opening meausres approximately 120mm X 350mm.  I could mount the panel from the top and leave room below for junk.  Will incorporate a USB charger so that phones could be charged inside the cabinet.  Less clutter….

DC Breaker Panels (house loads)

There are 15 breakers, in columns of five, across two panels as pictured below

The columns of 5 are (sort of) grouped by function:     

1 compass/nav lights
2 mooring light
3 (blanked with marker, had been labelled "top light" which actually meant the "steaming light".   Relabelled. 
4 Deck light
5 Fuel gauges
6 Water pump (white label)
7 bilge pump portside
8 bilge pump starboard side
9 shower pumps
10 electronic board

• Need to confirm what is actually connected here.  (This was reconfigure and is now distributed via a fuse block.  It controls:
• Mfd
• N2k
• VHF
• AIS
• RADAR

11 12V plugs

• should attempt to have USB chargers and fans wired to this cct.

12 Int lights/transom light

• the transom light is actually connected to #15

13 interior lights. (Future use- water maker?)
14 interior lights. (Reconfigure to Entertainment/comms?)
15 interior lights. (Interior lights)

• #15 is actually connected to the transom light.
• Need to understand which lights are on which breakers.   Perhaps there is a good reason to switch branches separately from this panel?  Can/should this be done from one breaker?

Options

• AIS - this should likely be switchable independent of the other electronics, and combined with the ‘silence’ switch.
• Silence - likely  means AIS, Rx only.  
• Watermaker - at some point there will be one.
• Sat Comms/LAN - should this be a separate breaker  on the main panel?
• Radar - should this be switchable due to its power consumption? (it is switchable at the MFD)
• Entertainment - should this have its own cct, separate from Navigation electronics?  Combine with comms and switch each within the new switch panel?   Entertainment/communications?

Labelling

Black inset of label field on breaker panel is approx 8mm X 28mm.  Unfortunately the smallest label Brady offers is over 9mm wide.  (3/8”)  M21-375-595-BK.  

 

Circuit protection at Nav stn.

• I have ordered two 6 pos fuse blocks for use in the house panel area at the nav station.  One will be for the entertainment ancd comms equipment, one for the NMEA/navigation equipment, as energized by the panel switches 10 and possibly 15.     24/7 circuits will likely be supplied from a similar fuse box at the battery box. 

May 2024

My prior post was obviously written under the influence of a very positive state of mind.   

As I explored further, it became clear that the various electrical upgrades over the years were not installed very thoughtfully and much needed undoing.  Breakers were relabelled, (or repurposed and not labelled) switches added.   Furthermore, the new N2K network, the ethernet and satellite networking, the AC wiring additions, and the loops and coils of excess cable from those upgrades plus some of the cabling from the older NMEA0183 instruments were all stuffed into the main electrical area, and simply cable-tied and taped together.   Photos are incomplete and don't show the worst of it.  That's enough on the sins of a darker past...

I excavated, untangled, and removed the NMEA0183 wiring and anything else that is now surplus or  was really substandard.  I separated, routed and secured the various systems, and labelled many wires and cables as they were identified.  Even though systems are now upgraded, there is much less cabling and other clutter choking the space.   I will likely locate the satellite communication and LAN router to some other nook nearby.  

I excavated, untangled, and removed the NMEA0183 wiring and anything else that is now surplus or  was really substandard.  I separated, routed and secured the various systems, and labelled many wires and cables as they were identified.  Even though systems are now upgraded, there is much less cabling and other clutter choking the space.   I will likely locate the satellite communication and LAN router to some other nook nearby.  

Why the original lighting sucks and what I did about it.

In 2024 all of Sakura's interior lighting was replaced, significantly improving the appearance, usability and comfort belowdecks, while also minimizing power consumption.   Circuits were consolidated, and some fixtures can now be switched to red for night use.  

 While some of Sakura's interior fixtures had received energy-saving LED lamps (bulbs) to replace the power hungry originals, the lighting was otherwise original and left a lot to be desired.  Why?   

Area lighting should illuminate the area evenly, and adequately for its intended use. Task lighting speaks for itself, and accent lighting is designed to highlight a feature, or to create a different shape or vibe to the space. Each is typically used concurrently in the same space. Area lighting is the primary challenge in retrofitting a boat due to constraints on fixture placement, low ceiling height, and glare from the light sources, being necessarily at or near eye level. (Ideally, You should see only the light, not the light source.) Area lighting should be designed to be brighter than may be desired at times, with light levels managed through dimming. Additionally, being able to control each fixture can help manage not only the overall light level, but can permits the creation of different "scenes" which can add variety, shape and ambiance to an otherwise uniformly-lit space.  In some cases, colour or colour temperature can also be controlled at the fixture.  . 

The 2" recessed downlights used in the overhead areas were designed to conceal the bright halogen light source, and to distribute its light downwards in a conical beam.  As a result, these fixtures work poorly as area lighting in low-ceilinged  applications, where the conical light distribution leaves the upper portions of the space in the dark.   This is the dreaded "cave effect".   While such fixtures were a fashionable breakthrough for certain uses in the pre-LED era, they were often misapplied.  Fortunately, LED  light sources are easier to control (meaning, they can be designed to distribute light more effectively than can a reflector and bulb) and there are much better choices today in a similar slim, circular, form factor.    

The original budget RV-style fixtures used in the head, galley and navigation area also reflect the limitations of what was available at the time.     

What to do?

Most of the overhead recessed downlights were replaced with touch-switchable miniature close-to-ceiling fixtures.    The distribution (of light) from these fixtures is nearly 180deg and eliminates the cave effect. (The photo of the nav station shows this well.)    

Initially the nav station, galley, and aft head each received an upgraded disc-type fixture which can be cycled between red, white (dimmable), and off.   These work so well I added one each to the sleeping areas and forward head as well, as the red lighting could be maintained while sailing at night.  

Even though the new fixtures are wired as one-to-one replacements of the old, and are therefore controlled in groups by the orignal switches, the touch-switchable feature is useful because individual fixtures can be turned off, allowing for different "scenes" as discussed above.   The dimming and red options on those fixtures add even more versatility.

Alubat's use of screw terminal blocks makes replacement quite simple.   

Fixture Choices

Beware LED light sources with cooler or unspecified colour temperatures.  I chose those with 3500k (like halogen) or lower.  (Warmer)   There is plenty of information online about colour temperature.  

• The wall-mounted fixture in the forward head was replaced by a 2W elegant "sconce".
• The 3W red/white fixtures are especially well suited for areas where night illumination is desireable.  
• The remaining ceiling downlights were replaced with the switchable "boob lights" mentioned above - 4W 4.5" units in most ceiling areas, and 3W 3.5" units where it made sense. 
• I have also purchased 4 gooseneck reading lamps, but have yet to determine where they will be used.

Loads and Wiring

The interior lighting originally required three 16A breakers on the switch panel to manage the loads.   This is not surprising as the power-hungry ceiling downlights used halogen lamps, and other fixtures required two small incandescent lamps.   The upgraded lighting has a total load of approximately 70w, approximately 6A.    This is well within the capacity of ONE circuit.    

So, Sakura's panel was revised and all of the interior lighting is now controlled by switch #12 on the panel, which has freed up two switches.   This required consolidation in an additional terminal block in the panel.

The original rocker switches located around the boat operate as designed, and no new fixture locations have been added.    Now though, in addition to groups of fixtures being operated by a single switch each can now be controlled individually, as discussed above.  Each sleeping cabin now has red/white/dimmable fixtures overhead, as does the galley and nav station.   This should be very comfortable for night use, and create a more versatile setup for living aboard.   

Reading and cabin lights

Last on this list of interior lighting upgrades was these klassy little units.   :

At some point I will post brochure-worthy pictures of a well-lit and orderly vessel.  The change is really remarkable, particularly given the relatively modest cost.  

One funny thing I noticed when working on the boat is that the head sinks are actually translucent.  When lit from below, they glow.   

The original fixtures.

Existing fixture inventory

• 11ea 70mm recessed downlights. 
• 5 ea Adjustable spotlights (theoretically these are reading lights.)   
• 5 ea ugly fixtures, 1 in each head, one over galley sink, one at Nav stn, one in forepeak.

Gebo Hatch refurbishment and Covers

In 2024 the GEBO hatches were completely refurbished with new acrylic lenses, seals and and hardware, and were provided with Sumbrella covers to protect them from future UV damage.

While the 20-year old GEBO hatches were fully operational and leak-free, they were showing signs of age, with crazed plexiglass and UV-degraded hardware. The plan was to prepare the lenses in my shop in Toronto, order the hardware from The Netherlands, and the DOW 795 glazing silicone from the USA, and ship the lot to the boat for installation.  While visiting the boat I had photographed the hatches, documented the hardware required, and measured the glazing.

Fortunately GEBO still exists, and this style of hatch is still in production. Parts are available and Gebo's communication was excellent.    Here is the factory literature: https://www.gebo.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Standard-Deckhatches-without-flange.pdf

Fabricating new Acrylic lenses

When I was at the boat, I measured the glazing dimensions accurately but I did not note the corner radii.  It appeared at first that the hatches used by Alubat might have been the off-the-shelf items listed below, so I reached out to GEBO to see if they had dimensioned drawings available.  They did not, but were able to provide the glazing dimensions and corner radii of the current, standard hatches.  This meant that I could make blanks in the shop at home, but had to drill the holes for the hardware at the boat.  

The overall dimensions are consistent with current production hatches, with the exception of the largest hatches where I measured glazing 7mm wider than the standard item.   Unfortunately the larger hatches futher differ from standard items with a 40mm corner radius vs the 60mm radius on the current standard hatch.  The 2001 OVNI hatches use the smaller 40mm radius for all hatches hatches   Best to confirm the glazing dimensions, corner radius, and hole placement using the actual hatches installed - assume nothing!  See the table below containing my measured dimensions and their 2023 standard hatch dimensions.

The acrylic is specified by GEBO as 10mm thick for all 8 of the deck hatches supplied on the OVNI 435.  This thickness is not available in North America, where 3/8" is the rough equivalent.   GEBO describes the colour as "Grey tinted" and the colour code for dark grey tint that I've used previously is # 2074.   3/8" acrylic, 2074 tint is stocked here at Plastic World in Toronto, where a 4'X4' half-sheet currently (June 2023) costs C$234.  This is enough to re-glaze all of the GEBO hatches on the 435.

The acrylic was cut to size on the tablesaw.   A template was made for the corner radii per the guidance provided by GEBO,   and the corners traced with a fine pencil, cut on the bandsaw, and sanded to the pencil line.  The plastic scraper’s V-Notch was used to relieve all sharp edges.   This all would have been much more difficult to do at the boat.

The plexiglass dimesions were correct except for the corner-radius issue noted above, and it required only light sanding to achieve an adequate perimeter gap for the sealant.   There was sufficient material in the half-sheet to make a spare large hatch replacement.  Replacement lenses for the 3 larger deck hatches, two cabin top and 4 cabin side resulted in a 35lb bundle to be shipped. 

Replacing the hardware

 Gebo specifies its hardware based on the glazing thickness, (10mm or 15mm) which is in this case 10mm.  All hardware is available as of 2023. The handles are an equal mix of left and right handed, with the small, cabin side hatches intended to be operated with one's left hand.  Thoughtful.

Required parts and spares:

The GEBO hardware requires two 6mm blind holes (for anti-rotation pins) and a 14mm through hole for the handle.   You will require one of their special wrenches to access the hinge nuts.  (included in the hinge repair kit)  Order extra external handles and hinge caps.  

I took a chance and ordered the very high quality bug screens for the mid-sized cabin top hatches, and they fit perfectly.    I really should get some screens for the small hatches.

Dow 795

Great stuff and the only silicone I would use on a boat.  Ensure the material is fresh - it will not cure if it is past its shelf life!

How to remove and reinstall the glazing

By first slicing the silicone from above, then gently inserting a thin, flexible, putty knife between the frame and the plastic lens from below, and patiently working it around the entire perimeter, the acrylic lens can  be parted, intact, from the frame.   It will then serve as a perfect template for  the replacement.   See blog post here for more specifics.    If you know of a good way to remove cured silicone please share.    

Mark took two full days to refurbish the hatches, and they are now as new.  Thanks Mark!

Having replaced all of the plexiglass and much of the hardware in the Gebo hatches, it made little sense to leave them exposed to equatorial sunlight for months while Sakura basks on the hard.   

Repurposing a tired sail cover and following the Sailrite YouTube video, some basic drawstring hatch covers were made.   It was a good basic sewing project, and an even better use of a worn sail cover. 

The dimensions (in inches) specified in that video are as follows:

• Rectangular cabin-top hatches:   24 3/4 diag, 18 1/2 hinge side, 22 long side
• Forward deck hatch:  30 3/4 diag, 25 1/2 hinge side, 24 other side
• Small hatches:  14 1/4 diag,  13 3/4  hinge side, 12 1/4 other side

Trapping the drawstring cord in the gasket can permit water ingress, and I am not confident that the barrel fastener will remain secure over time. (I knotted the rope to prevent it moving).  I think a better approach mnight be shock cord of the correct length to snap onto the hatch after it is closed.  update:  The covers have remained in place.  No problem.

While this approach seems adequate, IMO there’s a better design in this most excellent book.

Canvas for Cruisers: The Complete Guide

by Julie M. Gifford