Sakura has a fully battened mainsail and a Facnor batten car/sail track system. This is a low-friction setup which when combined with the lazy bag, makes dropping the main short-handed much easier and safer. Reefing is also easier as well.
The system requires shackles large enough to accommodate the cars, particularly the 30mm wide headboard car.
Suggested replacements are m6 machine screws. PITA
See below for correspondence with Facnor
Dear Sir,
Thanks for you request.
You will find below the references.
For the pins / screws :
Headboard car FT10 - Batten car FL10 – Intermediate car FI20 :
https://www.facnor.com/product/screw-m6-partially-threaded-06x88mm-for-fl10-fi20-20001060580/
Headboard car FT20 – Batten car FL20 :
https://www.facnor.com/product/screw-m6-partially-threaded-06x70mm-for-ft20-fl20-20001060700/
Intermediate car FI10 :
https://www.facnor.com/product/screw-m6-partially-threaded-06x48mm-for-fi10-f07-20001060480/
+ nuts (same for all car models) :
https://www.facnor.com/product/safety-nut-a2-m6-20005060000/
To order these parts, please contact one of our distributors :
https://www.facnor.com/dealers/
Bien cordialement / Best regards / Saludos cordiales
Amandine BRULÉ
FACNOR / Service commercial et Marketing / Sales and marketing Team
Ligne directe \ Direct line : +33 (0)2 14 48 10 05
Under construction.
This details the installation of a seawater pro single membrane 12VDC watermaker.
The seawater pro water maker is essentially a kit of parts, with separate membranes, water filters, pumps. It was well priced and I viewed it as a benefit to be able to choose where each of the bulky components was to be mounted.
The decision to add a watermaker was made after the purchase of the 1800w inverter, which was not adequate to support an ac-powered watermaker. (3500w would have been appropriate). So, I elected to use a dc-powered unit.
The addition of a large dc motor requires the addition of heavy cabling and protection. Fortunately the claimed wattage (600) of the seawater pro unit is less than that of the windlass (1000w) so the water maker could be supplied by the windlass feed, provided the two were not used concurrently.
The windlass is a 12v model, so I selected a 12v motor for the watermaker.
The most logical location for the watermaker and its various parts is in the sail locker, near both the windlass and the plumbing in the forward head.
Upon receipt I noticed the motor supplied with the seawater pro unit is rated at 80A. (1040w at 13vdc) we shall see how it works in practice.
Threads and fittings
The fittings in the kit are all imperial, the boat is not. It is very difficult to locate imperial fittings in Martinique, and to make matters more complicated seawater pro does not provide a table specifying the style of fitting used.
So, I asked them, and was assured. that their larger fittings are all 1/2” NPT. ( The ‘T’ means tapered, this is how the parts make a tight seal when assembled) However the system uses several male to male fittings to connect female threaded (FNPT) components, and this fitting has parallel (not tapered) threads, and includes o-rings. Clearly this is not an NPT thread.
After about an hour of measuring and research, it appears that the thread is 1/2” BSPP on this ‘custom’ part. 14mm thread pitch, 20.8mm thread OD, no taper. Not sure why they mixed thread styles in the kit, one of which is made in-house. Maybe they should include two rolls of Teflon tape.
NPT pitch is 14tpi, tapered.
BSPP fitting measured diameter at the outer threads is 21mm (20.8mm per standard) , 14tpi no taper.
They will engage but will not seal as-is.
Hoses and barbs
Attempt should be made to standardize all fresh water hose and fittings at 16mm/5/8” ID. This appears to be the most reliable cross between metric and imperial and is most prevalent in the ovni’s existing plumbing.
Seawater supply tubing (to pre-filters then pump) supplied is 1/2”, push on type.
Treated water (output) tubing supplied is 3/8”.
Threaded fittings are typically 1/2” NPT. (A few smaller)
Rinse filter will need to be connected with flexible hose- 16mm Fittings. Use valve instead of rinse timer?
Pex fittings will work. Should pex hose also be used ?
Required parts -
brine hose 3/8” ID to sink drain: 3/4” id T or y and run larger hose up to water maker.
Join to tanks - 16mm T-fitting at companionway, and hose to white supply tubing. Ideally valve remains in pump area.Push-on 3/8 (white) to 1/2” NPT female to adapt at valve.
Seawater supply from fridge strainer 16mm T fitting and shut off valve.with 16mm barbs., 16mm barb to 1/2” FEMALE NPT at pump. Existing push-to-connect to NPT female at pump. (Or straight. This continues to push-to connect at filters.
Straight 1/2” NPT female to 1/2” PUSH (option for existing)
Push to connect splices for 3/8 and 1/2” OR straight hose approx 8.5-9m each
Are push fittings to 16mm (5/8”) hose barbs available? Necessary for adapting to new pump in future.
Existing hoses
20
22
26.
*13mm hose is approx 18mm od.
Imperial od
3/4 (19.5mm) is approx 26mm OD (3mm wall)
5/8 (15.9mm)is approx 22mm OD (3mm wall)
Tubing as supplied appears to be
1/2” x .37” water filter hose, LLDPE (Same dimensions as 3/8” PEX)
3/8” OD x.25” ID marked DMtube 3/8” Same as 1/4” PEX
http://www.dmfit.com/eng/company/contactus.html
https://www.ifanbrass.com/info/pex-pipe-size-chart-get-a-grip-on-dimensions-a-84419707.html
https://www.fishtrack.com/article/handling-big-fish-part-1
https://www.fishtrack.com/article/handling-big-fish-part-2
The ws320 Bluetooth wind sensor worked for around 11 month and refused to pair after that. These things are known for this and the problem is likely the cheap ni-cad battery pack. Here are some recommendations for battery replacement:
Ye gods and little fishes!!!! Y'all are turning the easiet job on a boat into a totally unnecessary nightmare! The joker valve in any toilet is inside the discharge line...so removing the discharge line from the pump-AFTER you've flushed plenty of clean fresh water through it (use a beer cup from the sink)--is all you need to do to replace it. The flange on on the joker valve is the gasket that seals it to the pump. Be careful not to OVERtighten the screws when you put the hose back onto the pump...overtightening will cause the hose to pucker around the screws which will create leaks. So start with hand tight...flush the toilet to check for leaking. Tighten only a quarter turn more, flush again to check for leaking...repeat till no more leaking. If you have a manual toilet, it's important to replace the joker valve at least annually...Find my article "Joker Valve 101" in the files to learn the reason why. That article (along with a lot more useful information) is also in my book (see link in my signature below...just click on the title (my publisher's idea) which is a bit misleading because although it does cover all the sources of odor on a boat and how to cure--better yet,PREVENT 'em...it's actually a complete "marine sanitation systems 101" manual that includes US marine sanitation regs, holding tank management and maintenance (yes, holding tanks do actually need a bit of maintenance), all the most common equipment etc.
First determine when is a good day to leave. Use departure planning tool in predict wind. Look at the tables not the animations. Main things I look at is Gust, Wave and CAPE. Look at the details and find the outliers. Sometimes what seems like a good window on average is hiding some bad weather on small parts of a passage.
You need to look at various models to know if the predictions are likely to be true or just a wild shot.
If the CAPE is high (above 1500 - ideally under 1000) I know weather is likely unstable and squalls likely.
Once I determine a good day I go into the sail planning tool. Mainly looking at gust maps, currents, wave and Cape. Using all available models. Make sure to also zoom way out to see what is happening around you. Often predict wind doesn’t take into account residual swell from systems nearby.
Most importantly, if you have time is to validate the data you see on screen with reality. So pick tomorrow for example - check the different models and see which one got it right on that day. You also have validation tools on predict wind which helps guide you towards the most accurate model in that particular area.
And finally update your route daily until you depart. I believe PredictWind updates the models every 8 hour.
Hope this helps. Play around with it and happy to jump on a call where we can run through the different tools.
Oh and make sure you set polars on PredictWind.
And as you know remember that they are only predictions. They often get it wrong. Not very helpful I know but always best to be prepared for worst weather than predicted.
Redundant anchor marking
Diesel bug
Sakura is currently (September 2025) on the hard in Curacao, and will be ready to sail at the close of the 2025 hurricane season, (June 1 to November 30.)
Planning a sailing route involves exploiting the prevailing winds, which, at Caribbean latitudes generally blow north easterly to easterly at15-25kts. (see below) These are known as the ‘trade winds’ because they are strong and constant, and defined trade routes in the days of sail.
The intention is for Sakura to join the legions who cruise and charter in the lesser Antilles ( the smaller islands, running north-south from British Virgin Islands to Trinidad) between December and May, with visits from friends and family. These islands are popular winter tourist destinations for obvious reasons, but this area is a winter sailing playground specifically because the winds now fuel the tourist trade - sailors who enjoy straightforward sailing between islands that are usually within sight, and are a day's sail of each other.
At the moment though (Sept 2025), Sakura is nearly 500 NM south and west of the Lesser Antilles. This means that initially, Sakura must be delivered from Curacao, upwind, somewhat against the trade winds, to make landfall somewhere near the north end of the island chain.
The draft timeline as of Sept 2025 is as follows:
Klein Curacao is a half-day hop from Curacao. This provides an opportunity to test the boat and and confirm that all systems are working properly, and will provide the opportunity for any revisions or fine tuning that might be required, and an easy run back to Willemstad should any major issues become evident. Depending on weather and circumstances, we could spend two nights at anchor, with a day's circumnavigation of the island as a test sail, however much depends on the weather forecast.
Depending on conditions, KC to PR this would be a 3.5-5 day passage.
We will leave Sakura in Puerto Rico or the BVI, and return home for the holidays, and then fly back again, hopefully with one or more family members in tow for New Years' eve and early January.
This from Ronnie in response to my question regarding the ideal location for a Christmas layover:
Buenos días Dave!
Considering your crew will fly to Curacao Nov 29, most probable you will be sailing N around the first two week of Dic.
During winter, the odds of getting a weather window with SE winds are very slim.
That said, most probable you will be sailing somewhere to the S coast of PR.
Don’t know if you have been in PR before; but if not, I strongly suggest to your the Island at least one week.
Ah, don’t forget to pre fill your departure from Curazao and entry to PR using the SailClear app.
OK, now to the main topic: Where to leave your boat during your 10 days holidays.
If you can afford around $1,500 to leave your boat in a marina, that will be my first recommendation. But the main issue is not economical, but to find a slip in any marina.Try first Marina de Salinas, which is next to our property or Ponce Yacht & Fishing Club (PYFC).
An alternative will be to anchor your boat in Salinas and ideally to pay somebody to check it periodically.
And as said before, once in PR, it is easy to make your way East to the VIs.
NOTE:
There are about 4@5 marinas in the E side of PR but they are more expensive and more difficult to get a slip.
If you are lucky to get a SE wind for the crossing N and end up in the VIs, there are more than half a dozen marinas there.
I will never leave my boat anchored there.
Sailing E from PR (including Culebra and Vieques) to the USVIs, you DON’ T have to check out NOR check in!
Hope all this info helps!
Departing the BVI would likely involve the longest (but still short) passage in the Antilles, at around 90NM. 
To be continued.
https://shell-storm.org/repo/Sailing/Pilot-Charts/atlantique-nord/
The battery box on OVNI 435 #6 measures 22.5" X 30.25"X 9.5" deep and is located below the cockpit. It is made of welded aluminum and is bolted in place. It has an outward turning 2" flange around the top, with a seperate, single-piece plywood lid, With the lid removed, the batteries are partially accessible from either aft cabin, with all electrical connections on the port side. (note - OVNI 435 battery boxes can vary in size)
The one-piece plywood cover is secured to the flange with machine screws and easily-dropped nuts, and it has a 2"X2" (approx) cleat around its perimeter. The cover is bulky and inconvenient, and access is more difficult than it needs to be. Fortunately, this can easily be improved.
Cables enter the battery compartment through randomly-drilled holes on the port side. There is no positive bus bar, and no fusing at the batteries, Over time, accessories with a mishmash of fuse styles (or none) had been stacked on the various battery terminals. none labelled, most with no means of disconnect. The cables intrude into the middle of the box, interfering with battery installation and removal.
The house bank's 4 group 31 batteries were connected in parallel with heavy, well-made jumper links that appear to be original equipment. With the limited clearance to the conductive cockpit sole above, caution is required when working here, especially with top-terminal batteries.
The starter battery was/is also in this box, furthest aft. Access is particularly inconvenient.
The photos below show:
Below left you can see that batteries must be placed in or removed from the box it in a fore and aft orientation. Below right shows a pair of terminals in the cockpit locker that were connected to the starter battery. Presumably this was to provide for boosting or charging. This DIY hack has been removed, and I will eventually relocate the starter battery to a more accessible location, probably in the port side cockpit locker.
.JPG)
With the upgrade from 4 group 31 to 2 group 4d (ish) lithium batteries, it became a necessary to re-think the stowage of the batteries, and opportune to incorporate a bus bar, circuit protection, and a safer, more orderly layout.
Scope
Due to the size and shape of the batteries and the restricted access to the box, satisfying the above critieria is trickier than it first appears. Particularly item 1.6, as the batteries must be placed in the box in a fore-and aft orientation and then rotated atwhartships if that is the intent. This creates a bit of an assembly puzzle. See below, the mdf mock-up of the box and batteries.
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I cut a thick rubber mat to size and placed it in the bottom of the battery box. This provides some cushion to the batteries, and will help prevent them from sliding. I ultimately decided to arrange the batteries as pictured above, with a hold down system made of stout oak rails, with two 2" wide rails at either end of the box, elevated off the bottom by 2". In the photo, mock-ups of these can be seen at the narrow ends of the box. Note that the postive terminals are at what will be the forward end of the box. The 2" rail width was chosen to provide a protected space for cables and terminal fuses around the perimeter of the box.
A second pair of rails, 2"X2" and movable, span the full 30" length of the box. In use, these are placed in the empty box, and slid under the raised. fixed rails. The fixed rails thus prevent these movable, longitudinal rails from lifting. The batteries are placed between the longitudinal rails as pictured, and against the forward rail. Ratchet straps looped around the movable rails are used secure both house and start batteries. As the strap is tightened, The rails are pulled upwards and towards eachother, and the batteries, between these rails, are pushed downwards against the rubber mat. Once the start battery is installed, wooden spacer blocks will be fitted into the remaining spaces to further secure the movable rails (and therefore the batteries) laterally, preventing any movement, and spacers will be added to the to the lid to further limit movement should the ratchet straps fail.
No tools are required, and the layout can be reconfigured as required in future.
The mdf protoype worked well, so a more refined version was committed to red oak. You can see the short end rails with the M8 bolt holes, and the movable rails with the added refinement of a cleat to secure the hold down strap. The straps were cut and loops sewn as shown.
