The ws320 Bluetooth wind sensor worked for around 11 month and refused to pair after that. These things are known for this and the problem is likely the cheap ni-cad battery pack. Here are some recommendations for battery replacement:
Ye gods and little fishes!!!! Y'all are turning the easiet job on a boat into a totally unnecessary nightmare! The joker valve in any toilet is inside the discharge line...so removing the discharge line from the pump-AFTER you've flushed plenty of clean fresh water through it (use a beer cup from the sink)--is all you need to do to replace it. The flange on on the joker valve is the gasket that seals it to the pump. Be careful not to OVERtighten the screws when you put the hose back onto the pump...overtightening will cause the hose to pucker around the screws which will create leaks. So start with hand tight...flush the toilet to check for leaking. Tighten only a quarter turn more, flush again to check for leaking...repeat till no more leaking. If you have a manual toilet, it's important to replace the joker valve at least annually...Find my article "Joker Valve 101" in the files to learn the reason why. That article (along with a lot more useful information) is also in my book (see link in my signature below...just click on the title (my publisher's idea) which is a bit misleading because although it does cover all the sources of odor on a boat and how to cure--better yet,PREVENT 'em...it's actually a complete "marine sanitation systems 101" manual that includes US marine sanitation regs, holding tank management and maintenance (yes, holding tanks do actually need a bit of maintenance), all the most common equipment etc.
A cupful--no more than 2--of distilled white vinegar flushed all the way through to the holding tank and/or direct overboard thruhull weekly or at the end of a cruise if you're not on the boat every weekend will prevent mineral buildup on the joker valve and in the hoses. DO NOT leave vinegar sitting in the bowl...it will cause soft rubber (your joker valve) to distort and pucker. A 12-15% dilute of muriatic acid--available from any decent hardware store--flushed all the way through the system will remove sea water mineral buildup in the hoses and on the joker valve...Rinse with clean FRESH water after 45-60 minutes. A serious buildup may require a repeat.
First determine when is a good day to leave. Use departure planning tool in predict wind. Look at the tables not the animations. Main things I look at is Gust, Wave and CAPE. Look at the details and find the outliers. Sometimes what seems like a good window on average is hiding some bad weather on small parts of a passage.
You need to look at various models to know if the predictions are likely to be true or just a wild shot.
If the CAPE is high (above 1500 - ideally under 1000) I know weather is likely unstable and squalls likely.
Once I determine a good day I go into the sail planning tool. Mainly looking at gust maps, currents, wave and Cape. Using all available models. Make sure to also zoom way out to see what is happening around you. Often predict wind doesn’t take into account residual swell from systems nearby.
Most importantly, if you have time is to validate the data you see on screen with reality. So pick tomorrow for example - check the different models and see which one got it right on that day. You also have validation tools on predict wind which helps guide you towards the most accurate model in that particular area.
And finally update your route daily until you depart. I believe PredictWind updates the models every 8 hour.
Hope this helps. Play around with it and happy to jump on a call where we can run through the different tools.
Oh and make sure you set polars on PredictWind.
And as you know remember that they are only predictions. They often get it wrong. Not very helpful I know but always best to be prepared for worst weather than predicted.
Redundant anchor marking
Diesel bug
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