Hi Damian - some Curacao notes.
A side note: Am back home now and Robert visited last weekend and remarked on how courteous and easygoing the poeple were in Curcao. He said it really surprised him. I would add to that businesses are largely entrepreneurshipsand are generally very capble and courteous as well. The Dutch run businesses are run as one would expect in Northern Europe and the Dutch are as warm and friendly as they are there. ;-) Its kind of a 'second world' place if that makes sense. I've been told though, that construction may be a challenge (impliction was corruption/theft) and that getting things like internet service set up can be painful.
Money
The ABC islands are part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands but are not part of the EU. Currency is Netherlands Antilles Florins (NAF or Fl) commonly known as guilders. US dollars are readily accepted everywhere at what appears to be a standard exchange rate. Some Canadian dollar credit cards, with some merchants' terminals will process a charge in NAF, some won't. You will often be asked "dollars [US] or guilders?" Using a Canadian credit card and buying in USD likely means paying twice for exchange..It is handy to have cash in guilders. Finding ATMs that are inexpensive can be an issue, RBC Royal Bank (recommended) provides US dollars or guilders with a six dollar service charge, Banco Caribe is a rip off, (NAF only, 14fl charge 100fl max) MCB (another local bank) only offers Guilders or Euros and the fee is $10. Your C$ credit card may or may not work in NAF, but any merchant will charge in USD. (so you pay for exchange twice) ATMs are all over the place but the financial district is in the east side of Shottegatweg, just east of the Zeelandia area, and north of the roundabout of reckless abandon.*
Language and communication
Papiamentu and Dutch are the official languages of the ABC islands, but Papiamentu is most commonly spoken and is on on most signage. You will hear some Spanish being spoken as well, and English is pretty well understood. If you can get a Papiamentu phrase book it would be fun. I have completely failed in this regard, even though I bought a two-volume crash course.book store and cafe.
Make sure you have Whatsapp and use it for your primary means of communication. Everybody there does.
Emergency numbers
AirBNB I've stayed (in reverse order of preference) in:
- Two different multi-storey very budget hotels downtown. (weird but funny, shabby, boring, no kitchen - short stays)
- One mother-in-law suite under and behind a posh residence in a gated villa community (nice but really boring and I felt like Harry Potter living under the stairs)
- one scruffy little apartment in a very modest neighbourhood near Mambo beach. (was in a jam, it was OK, with a resident cat that was so domineering it became annoying)
- One very nice apartment near the Mahaai neighbourhood.
- One OK apartment in a nice house at the end of a very rough (appearing) street. (chickens galore, two daschunds with hip-hop names, wild parrots and iguanas, and huge domino games the street. fun)
- One apartment in the heart of Salina (great host, super convenient, entertaining density of dogs, chickens, neighbours). Very near the roundabout of death.*
These are all in Willemstadt proper in a 5km circumference of SE willemstadt, where my boat is located. None are near beaches or have pools, so I can't speak to a more "holiday" type experience. I prefer "going local" - it’s just more interesting to me. any non-hotel Ive stayed at really needed a car to do anything.
As always with Airbnb, bring your own kitchen knives. For some reason, no Airbnb I’ve stayed in Curacao had a veggie peeler. Only one had a toaster. Coffee making is hit and miss, I always bring my moka pot from the boat. (And pots, and knives, etc). Kitchen ranges are typically propane. Tank outside, if it doesn't light, check the valve. It is good to have a washing machine, a dryer is not necessary. I’ve yet to see a place with one. I’ve not yet encountered a place with a bbq, nor have I noticed anyone using one.
Many places don’t have hot water, it is not required, the water is plenty hot after the pipes have been in the sun all day.
Most places have room-level air conditioning that is only turned on prior to going to bed. The main living areas are often not air conditioned, but typically have fans.
The Water
The tap water is fine to drink. Typically I fill several 1.5l water bottles every day. I freeze some and use them in the boat icebox to keep my lunch and water cool. I usually have 5-6 on the go. A good trick for outings I think.
I’ve never been sick at all in Curacao, not even any minor digestive adjustment.
Paying for electricity
Electricity is 110 V, North American receptacles but most places have a 220v outlet (also North American.)
Electricity is purchased at gas stations offering a service called Pagaifasil, or Pagatinu which provides a receipt with a code you enter in the keypad in your unit, that allows you to pre-buy electricity and pay per use. I believe you need the account number. The owner will have pre-bought several kWh for you and will likely expect you to leave with ‘the tank full’ or leave cash in lieu of.
Garbage and Recycling
Garbage bins are outside and collected once a week. I learned a trick with inside containers and that is to leave the bag in the container as normal but twist the bag shut or trap it shut with the lid. This keeps the flies/fruit flies at bay and saves you taking out the garbage twice a day. (Remember, the living space is typically not air conditioned)
Recycling is done at grocery stores and elsewhere. Look in the parking area for a big brightly-painted dumpster-like thing with holes in the side, labelled for the various materials. They don’t take glass, cardboard or steel near as I can tell, just plastics and aluminium.
Dogs, Cats, Birds, Lizards, Bugs
There are tons of dogs and many cats around. You'll notice the dogs seem generally healthy and well cared for unlike most in the Caribbean. I've never found them unfriendly, though they will piss on your car and maybe any stuff you leave around.
Chickens abound, even in the denser suburbs. (though not in the 'gated communities' and such.)
Food - Groceries and other essential shopping
Shopping hours are pretty liberal in Curacao, check each place online.
For stocking up on paper and washing type stuff when you first arrive, there is a place called Goisco which is essentially a small Costco. You cant bring backpacks or bags inside, they offer lockers. It has a pretty good selection of produce and also, prepared foods - super popular at lunch. I figured I’d go there for sunscreen as it was expensive elsewhere (and not widely available) and costs between 30 and 40NAF. None at Goisco. Weird, or so I thought, until it finally dawned on me that brown people don’t need it...DUH. Anyway, consider buying in bulk and bringing with you. It is stocked at Van Der Tweel. I tried to avoid buying US brands and so bought one called Altruist, which twice had the aerosol fail. Avoid that package.
Supermarkets are pretty good and are far more varied and less corporate than at home. They are independent and reflect their owners and clientele. Refreshing! Often there are take out lunch counters and small restaurants associated with the store, there are inexpensive and seem popular.
Here are a few of the stores I use regularly, there are many others:
Van Der Tweel in Zeelandia is clearly Dutch and is a bit expensive but has the best bread, and also fresh squeezed orange juice. Think of a Euro whole foods or Farmboy. I've seen a farmer's market in their parking lot on Saturday mornings, but that may be seasonal. They have another location in Jan Thiel.
Centrum in Mahaai is like a Canadian supermarket in feel and has very good produce
Best Buy supermarket is clearly Asian and is not unlike Blue Sky, TNT etc Near Salina. Crazy good assortment of Asian and European sauces and stuff, as welll as meats and (frozen) seafood. Also, cheap cookware/bowls for anything the Airbnb might be missing. I think they do a cash and carry type business with smaller stores, their inventory is impressive.
Mangusa hyper market is an experience. Kind of like highland farms meets the West Indies on the Friday of a long weekend. https://www.mangusahypermarket.com/
The local ‘Chinese shop’ thrives all over the place, and is usually a hang out in the evenings. They have staples, cold beer, a few fresh items, and a range of stuff catering to the neighbourhood. Fun.
Luna Market on Caracasbaiweg is a weird asian place with mislabelled aisles and a unique assortment, including cookware andtools and hardware. You can get "Chinees Etes" at lunch. Produce is OK, and they carry local starches and veg.
The fruit and veg you’d normally buy at home is all imported, often expensive and is not always the best. I haven’t learned how to cook the Caribbean stuff well, but have experimented with a few things and was glad I did. On a long vacation this would be fun to do with some intention. Lettuce isn’t always easy to get but spinach (and other greens) is and cucumbers are. Plantains keep well in the heat and are understandably a staple. Buy green and fry ‘em up when ripened. (Refrigerate after cooking too) Bananas have to be eaten quickly. Papaya is inexpensive and good for breakfast. My go-to was muesli, sliced papaya and banana and Greek yogurt from the Netherlands (cost just over half what we'd pay here) and milk, all of which is available and inexpensive, and seems to suit hard work in a hot climate. As with many places, eggs are not refrigerated and don't need to be (until they have been, once)
For fresh fruit and veg In Punda (the old downtown) there are fruit/veggie/fish stalls daily at the floating market.
Kooyman in Zeelandia is a very well run home Depot-like business, should you need that.
Food - Restaurants
There are many, many restaurants in Willemstadt, and I’ve barely scratched the surface as I’ve generally cooked for myself.
If you want ‘kuminda krioyo’. (local creole cuisine) you find it at midday as these local places are closed in the evenings, frankly, the larger mid-day meal and and a mid-day break makes much more sense in the climate anyhow as I’ve learned working on the boat. (I was there in summer during a heat wave... It was dangerously hot for working, especially inside an aluminium boat. Be careful, I did learn to recognize the onset of heat exhaustion and also developed a nasty heat rash, apparently an auto-immune response. This only when the daytime temps were 36-38 deg and I was working. 32deg, (winter) no issue.
In the Punda Plasa Bieu is big eating hall place where prepared lunches are sold by various vendors. Good and neither cheap nor expensive. (Didn’t try the iguana soup but the conch stew was excellent)
There is a weird hotel generously called ‘Curacao Suites’ that has a rooftop Indian/seafood restaurant. If you want an Indian restaurant they bring one menu, if you want a seafood restaurant, they bring the other…. lol). The owners are Indian and the vibe leans that way, and it seems to be well supported by the local Indian community. Very recommended. Some Indian celebrity was there when I was one night and a great fuss was being made.
Everywhere you’ll see Chinese (typically) bar/restaurants. These are like our local ‘greasy spoons’ and are where tradesmen etc eat lunch. They often have barred windows at a stand up/takeout area and a few tables inside. Like the local "Chinese store" these don’t look very much like home, and are not inviting to Canadian eyes, but don’t be deterred. Some seem to operate like ‘the local’ in evenings in the UK. Below in busy Salina.
There are stands/stalls selling batidos (fruit drinks) and meat patties, and arepas. Typical lunch fare. You will commonly see Kuminda Surinam as well, the old dutch Guyana.
In the Zeelandia Mall there is Kafe 5999 a small Cafe, really good coffee and treats.
Recommended but not tried is Pizzaroni, on Caracabaiweg near the roundabout of infinite patience.
you can get a good sandwich and probably other stuff when out shopping in zeelandia at this Quick Food lunch place.
Ther eare numerous restaurants in the Jan Thiel/Spanish Waters area catering to tourists.
For a nice outdoor meal on Caracasbaiiweg try disrutas mas (local recommendation and my own) which is right beside this interesting outdoor food court place I've never tried but for the ‘Bo Kofi’ excellent coffee. Pasawa Box Eatery Definitiey hopping on weekend nights, maybe a hangout for youth.
Buying Gasoline
When you buy gas you prepay, through a barred window cash only. Dollars or NAF. The pump is yellow for gasoline, black for diesel. Figure out the capacity of your car’s fuel tank and buy what you need or you’ll overpay then be overfilling it and dumping it all over the ground like I did.
Cars and driving
A big vehicle would be a pain to park and navigate in curacao.
There are ‘local’ car rental guys that are much cheaper than Avis etc. Also, a big brand name (Avis) is not a guarantee of a good car, as I found out. (Worst I've had- totally trashed) I’ve had very good luck with Europcar who are a traditional agency, well run, nice cars) On my most recent trip, they had no cars so I was connected with Huurauto- one of many of its type, for $40usd/day. (could probably get it cheaper. Was met at the airport by the owner "Soni" (Sonny) and got a beat up Kia Picanto. Paid cash, insurance docs in car, not sure I want to test it. Got a flat and changed it for the temp spare, and whatsapped Soni to let him know. He dropped what he was doing, met me at Goisco to take the old tire then met me again an hour later at my airbnb where he Installed the new tire. This was on a Saturday during carnival weekend. His wife and young daughter met me at the airport drop-off lane to return the car. Super nice people. I was also approached by the young night guard at the boat yard - he rents cars as well. Apparently the government supports small-scale entrepreneurs and makes it easy for them to operate.. If the renter doesn't do it for you, take a video of the car and share with the renter via whatsapp. Soni did this. Make sure the car has a decent spare and proper jack and tools.
The sun, potholes and speed bumps are very hard on vehicles. Be careful at night as the streets aren’t lit and the speed bumps are big and hard to see.
Also be careful at night because it is very common for people to run red lights just after they’ve changed.
It is illegal to turn right on a red, and each direction will have its own light. These are positioned differently than here and at first you will pull too far ahead as you approach the intersection, and will be unable to see the light:
You’d better look up how to interpret the yield/right of way signs yourself. I'm sure I have it wrong.
Traffic can be bad, at morning and mid day especially at the various roundabouts (except the roundabout of reckless abandon). Caracasbaiweg is a busy road linking Jan thiel to willemstadt and it can get quite jammed. Try to avoid that and Salina at lunchtime.
Where to stay
The best ‘in town’ areas to stay are probably Otrobanda and the more upscale strech along Pietermaai. Both are in or within walking distance to the centre, and have nicer restaurants and boutique hotels. (both recommended by my last AirBNB host for your purposes.)
It appears that most of the higher end guest-type places for rent are in the Jan Thiel/Spaanse Wasser area, est of the city. Jan Thiel appears most "walkable" for shopping and stuff. Have driven by some of it but not explored.
Wikipedia etc
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pietermaai
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Otrobanda
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spaanse_Water
https://www.janthielbeach.com/
Tugboat beach at Spanish Waters is/was an oil terminal (now closed) and is where they still service ships and oil rigs.
Recreational Shopping
I dunno…. Ask me about welders, machine shops, and fastener suppliers. There are malls and stores like anywhere. Local, European and foreign sure American in flavour as well.
Misc
Apparently the most beautiful places to drive to are the more natural areas, west end of the island. Best beach at Westpunt apparently and you can swim with sea turtles. I havent seen that part of the island myself. Its only about 40 min from Willemstadt. My AirBNB host was mad that I didn't take Robert there.
Diving is a thing and you can get licensed here. Might be fun for your group. As might deep sea fishing - also a big deal. The boatyard owners are avid fishermen with very fancy boats, and I'm sure they could recommend a charter.
Carnival is during the first weekend of March, it’s a big deal here Be aware of other stat holidays as well.
I know two people who offer Island tours and a few who could provide more advice if needed.
Also, seach Whatsapp for Curacao visitors or similar. You may find English language chat groups. There are two for sailors (normal these days) but it wouldnt surprise me if there were similar ones for terrestrial tourists.
Turbo Machine Shop
Kennia Sewing
Goisco (like Costco)
All signs (for plastics)
Hydraulics shop. Erik is an awesome guy.
https://www.hydrostorecuracao.com/
Edwin Versteeg, Surveyor. Another smart, helpful person.
Insurance. Laura is extremely resonsive and very knowlegeable.
Laura Lindstrom-Croop
INTERNATIONAL WATERS INS. SERVICES
411 Walnut Street #14847, Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
Website: www.MarineInsurance.cc | e-mail: Laura@MarineInsurance.cc
Fax 443-926-0580 | Phone (904) 705-4485
Freight forwarder from Serge
Lynette Reyes
AmCar Freight, Inc.
10100 NW 25 Street
Miami, FL 33172
Tel: (305) 599-8866 - Ext 129
Fax: (305) 599-2808
Lynette@amcarfreight.com
www.amcarfreight.com
Another, From Laura
When we were in Curacao we used Cur-ant Transfer, they have a facility in Miami, they will collect packages from all over and combine them on a pallet for you. You just need to provide a list to them of what is coming from where, we just sent copy of receipts.
Email debbie@curcargo.com or call them 305-251-1460. Their rates were very reasonable, service not the best, I never got a quote ahead of time but the shipping costs
Always seemed reasonable. They own their own boat that comes to Curacao once a week so if all your packages are there by Tuesday they go out on the Thursday boat, or something like that. They also go by Florida Express. Their office is 2 miles from the marina, its cheaper to pick up items yourself, but they will deliver to the marina, there is a charge for this.
Items go thru customs but as long as you have your boat papers there is no duty.
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