Monday, 23 September 2024

Locks and keys, small detail, deep rabbit hole.

Quest for duplicate keys

Sakura came with a pile of keys, none labelled, and only one for the main hatch. I sorted out the lot, tagged them all, and decided I should have duplicates for each and a few extras for the main hatch.

“In 33 years I have never seen that key”. Thus spake the learned locksmith at Kennedy's locksmith in Willemstadt. Not surprising and I'm sure he knows his stuff. I will order blanks and have him cut them on my next visit. (There's always something that has to wait till next time.)

Here's an enlightening exchange on the alubat FB group. Thanks Mac!

The conversation continued. My thanks to Alubat FB group members for providing assurance that this is a common key (and for cheap locks!) in Europe, and particularly to Anne-Marie, who photographed her recently-cut keys, their manufacturer and part number Silca UL060.

Which cross-references to JMA U-2D, a part number which seems to exist in North America, however is not commonly available as such.

https://www.keyblankdepot.com/product_p/jma3355.htm

$7 for the keys, $75 to ship from Texas to Canada!

Bill F later indicated that an Ilco (a brand commonly available in Canada) 997B worked.

So, following the next cross-reference trail from Ilco 997B, leads to yale 7D, and another online source. https://www.clksupplies.com/products/997b-yale-key I have emailed some local suppliers on this SKU.

Apparently the following are equivalents:

ANIS A21
CANAS UVS2
CEA UN10
CHARLES BIRCH 5851
ERREBI U4PD
JMA U-2D
KEY-LINE UN4PD
KIS U20
LOTUS UV4
ORION UNL4P

Silca: UL060

Silca: ULO60

JMA: U-2D

JMA: U2D

KL: UN4PD

Orion: UNL4P

CEA: UN10

Anis: A21

Lotus: UV4

C Birch Hook: 585

Add (possibly) for North America

Ilco 997B

Yale 7D

Sunday, 15 September 2024

Victron Solar

Solar Upgrade

Based on the conversations detailed in the earlier post (below) I decided to remove the wind generator, which was obviously shading the solar panels. This and a good cleaning saw the 2X100w solar panels produce much closer to their nominal 200w. Regardless, I have decided to upgrade the solar panels to a nominal 400W. This will help offset the loss of the wind generator, and should, in sunny regions be more than enough to keep the batteries charged. (I duly note that most cruisers opt for more than this)

I was concerned that I could not find a form factor that would not exceed the width of the arch. Fortunately, Renogy offers a size that fits in a 200w 24v panel. A pair of these should fit comfortably within in the existing width, while extending only 8.5" further fore/aft. (49.7"X 30" vs 47X21.5") https://www.renogy.com/renogy-16bb-n-type-200-watt-24v-solar-panel/

Each 24V 200w panel will produce around 5 amps at 37V, and obviously the pair will produce double that. The existing Smartsolar 100/30 MPPT controller is therefore just adequate for the pair. (100V is max input voltage, and 30A is max output current. 400w at 14.6V=27.4a.) A higher output or second MPPT controller should probably be used, so I purchased a Victron Smartsolar 100/50 for this purpose. This provides redundancy plus a variety of wiring options, including series wiring, two controllers etc.

The obvious advantage to any higher voltavge/lower current PV installation is that the Victon MPPT controller does not operate until the solar panels produce 5V more than the set battery voltage. (14.6VDC in m case). This means that with 12V panels, in lower light conditions the MPPT might not be producing at all

has a floor voltage meaning,

While I do not wish to install any more fixed panel area at this point, the existing panels could be used at anchor if I cared to fabricate some sort of removable bracket.

Original post.

Sakura came equipped with 2X100w parallel-wired Victron SPM100-12/3a solar panels and a Victron 100/30 MPPT controller, charging an aged 4X100AH AGM house bank. (since scrapped and replaced with 2X230AH Lithium) These panels have kept the house bank charged while the boat has been on the hard and during my periodic refit visits over the past year.

As discussed below, these panels are producing less than 100w under ideal solar conditions. Each is producing a similar 40w individually. What is obviously not ideal is the presence of the wind generator directly above the panels. It appears that the wind generator installation may have preceeded the panel installation, resulting in shaded panels.

Reimagining the use of the arch, and updating the bits mounted thereto is a project in itself.

The MPPT controller will be moved to the electrical area under the port side aft berth. The solar panel wiring will be brought to that location also so that series/parallel can be wired there.

In May 2024, I finally decided to download the Victron app and see (via bluetooth from the MPPT controller) what the panels were doing, and was surprised to find that the two were typically generating a total of less than 100W total. 50-85w typically, at 16-18VDC. This at mid-day, in the tropics. When connected individually, both panels behaved similarly, with each generating 25-40W.

Based on my experience with a 175watt installation on Windstar, which generated much more electricity, I find it hard to believe that the panels are functioning as they should.

I havent yet had a chance to methodically examine this, but I did post online, asking the following:.

Is this normal with these panels?
Are the panels failing? (identically?)
Could tired batteries be the cause?
Could there be an issue with the MPPT controller?
Could the controller have been programmed in such a way as to cause this?

Responses were:

Panel is shaded, mostly by the wind generator. This will significantly reduce output.
Connections should be checked for corrosion.
MPPT controller may be more efficient if panels are connected in series.
A seperate controller for each panel is ideal.
Bifacial or better quality panels (CIGS) would help.
panels will rarely be at 90deg to the sun, significantly reducing efficiency.

So, the strategy might be to:

clean up the connections
remove the wind generator
re-wire panels in series. (and compare)
measure output with each change.

Panel dimensions are 47X21.5", frame is 1.375"h

mounting frames are 23 3/16" o/c

DC Infrastructure: Storage, charging, monitoring.

I purchased Sakura knowing that her 5 AGM batteries required replacement. Having had a great experience with Windstar's solar and LiFePo battery upgrades, I looked forward to taking this step with Sakura.

Sakura was built in 2001, and since then there have been leaps forward in battery technology, charge sources, combined inverter/chargers, and smart options for monitoring and controlling the entire system. Components are inter-related, and each should be considered as part of a system, which itself should be designed at the outset with clear and realistic use cases in mind. Sakura had some good pieces, but these were a series of add-ons rather than a coherent system upgrade.

The AC infrastrure is discussed here.

Scope

The use case for Sakura is to be completely independent of shore for water and energy for extended cruises and living aboard, with the exception of propane as a cooking fuel. Air conditioning is not in scope. With that in mind, upgrades were made, resulting in the following:

Monitoring and Control

1 ea Victron BMV712 battery monitor, (existing) repurposed as a DC current meter for the the solar and hydro generation.
Victron CERBO GX installed to monitor all systems. New in '24. This provides a single access point for monitoring and controlling power..

Connectivity can be made via bluetooth, Wifi, Ethernet, and a cabling scheme called VEdirect which uses JST PH series, 2mm pin headers.
The interface is through direct connection to a touch screen or via an app on a PC or IOS/Andriod device.
This technology permits GX compatible, components system to be monitored and controlled from a single point, in a consolidated way, most often from the nav station where most other systems converge.
The entire system can be monitored and configured remotely via the VRM portal.
smart shunts can be added to provide GX monitoring of non compatible devices but that's not in scope at this point.

Victron Lynx Shunt - this is a smart shunt that provides data on the batteries and energy usage via the Cerbo GX.

12VDC generation and AC conversion: 5 charge sources, two inverters.

Existing 2 ea Victron 100W rigid solar panels connected in parallel. via a Victron 30/100 solar controller.

The solar installation was not producing near its nominal output, as the panels were shaded by the wind generator..

1ea Eclectic energy D400 wind generator, now removed.
1ea Eclectic energy Sailgen Eclectic energy Sailgen producing approxomately 200w. (was damaged, now repaired.
victron Multiplus inverter charger - 70 A charging capability. New in 2023.
70a alternator with external regulation via a Sterling Power products Advanced Alternator Regulator..

Alternator/DC:DC charger

Considerations for Alternator use:

Determine charge profile selected on sterling regulator (AGM setting most likely)
Can the sterling regulator be connected directly to the liTime batteries or is a dc:dc charger absolutely required?
Consider disconnecting house bank from sterling alternator for now.
Document parameters for liTime battery for config.
Not yet installed is a Victron ORION 30a DC:DC charger. Obviously this device limits alternator charging to 30a. (around 400w) I expect that Victron may bring out a 50A unit before long. It is unclear what how much energy the alternator will produce in real-world operating conditions for an extended period due to heat/thermal protection.

Main (220v) Inverter/Charger

As I explored Sakura I realized that her tiny 350W 220V inverter would not be adequate and that it had been crudely "tacked on" rather than integrated into the electrical system. (probably the intent ws simply to power a laptop or to charge batteries.) Doing a "proper" upgrade meant that her relatively recent 70A Victron Centaur battery charger would be replaced with a much more sophisticated inverter/charger.

In the photos below, taken inside the portside cockpit locker, you can see the Victron automatic isolation transformer (2023) on the far left, the 1600VA Multiplus inverter/charger (2023) beside it, the MPPT controller, shore power breaker, and a 220v receptacle. This was an extremely tight fit in this space. Too tight. If I were to do it again I'd put the isolation transformer on the bulkhead behind the rudder post, and live with the extra wiring.

Batteries - 460ah LiFePo house bank (2024)

2ea LiTime 230AH lithium batteries. See here for details of LiTime customer experience. product defect.
Group 31 AGM start battery.

Start Battery

At launch, sakura will receive a new group 31 AGM start battery. This is wired into to the inverter charger's trickle charge connection. Today it lives in the battery box below the cockpit but I could forsee that it would be relocated to a box inside the cockpit locker, facilitating access and permiting a larger lithium house bank.

Battrery isolation - ACR/Diodes

The 435 has diodes in place to isolate the house and start banks. The selector switch was left set on "both" by the prior owner, and there was a set of crude terminals connected to the start battery, located in the cockpit locker. I haven't studied any of this yet, but I am guessing that the "both" choice was to ensure that the solar panels could keep the start battery charged, and that the remote start battery terminals were either to permit the use of a battery tender, or to facilitate jump starting if required. The diode installation is probably detailed on the factory drawing.

I can forsee a VSR/ACR replacing the diodes providing isolation between start/house banks in the absence of a charge source.

Prior Posts and working notes.

Next steps.

Install LiFePo batteries. ✅
Wiring/fusing/distribution to be brought up to standard. ✅
Master cabin and head euro receptacles to be installed.
Optimize solar output.
Ensure all regulation is standardized for LiFePo charge profile voltages.
Replace Sailgen cable and repair damage to yoke and bracket.
determine how start/house isolation is achieved (diodes in companionway)
determine how windlass and winch are installed and fused
determine how battery switching works and re-label
Start battery to be relocated to PS cockpit locker for ease of removal and jump starting as required.
Adaptors to be made for 120V use.
install DC:DC charger.

Most of the power related equipment aboard is from Victron, and most is GX-compatible. This means that it can be monitored as part of a system and controlled though a GX device. The CERBO GX is therefore a likely short term upgrade. It is compatible with the Zeus3 MFD as well as the on board ethernet network, and therefore should not require an additional display, though I believe it can display to a generic touch-screen. (USB/hdmi).

Connections can be made several ways, including a proprietary(ish) 4 wire system called VEdirect - using JST PH 2.0 4 wire connectors. (2mm). I had a crimper abaord for "dupont" connectors, and ordered some loose strip-fed terminals - didnt work, not sire how one can nand-terminate those, Ordered pre-terminated pigtails instead, not as elegant but easy to solder in-situ.

See link to DIY usb cables.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XSMwFWjhYYU

Connections required:

2ea ethernet from multiplus to gx and gx to LAN DONE

2ea VEdirect from mppt, bmv, to GX wired but not terminated

BT from the Orion dc:dc charger. (Why did they not include a wired VE connection???)

DC distribution upgrades

The +12VDC connections to the battery appear to have evolved over time and could use some planning, and correct circuit protection. It would be a lot better to be at the boat to plan this however it is clear that the charge sources and various electronic items could use their own respective fuse blocks. It would also be handy to provide for the disconnection of one of the two lithium batteries should the BMS require a reset.

The electronic items could be managed via this device:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5028/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Cover

Pics from Oct 2023

Before:

During:

After

Tight fit!

Lower section with UK receptacles to be revised.

A few more things to make right.

Home made engine battery jump start port?

Paint- Deck.

I must learn to embrace painting.

Links to assist in doing a better job….

https://forum.woodenboat.com/forum/tools-materials-techniques-products/235547-

Whatever the anti-skid is, it was very hard, and could only be removed with a grinder. Hot, dusty work.

do not enjoy painting. Anything.

The deck coatings were in terrible condition, The top layer was peeling in places and oxidized everywhere else, and the base layers was failing in places, particularly adjacent to hardware. In some cases there was pitting evident, the worst of which was around the hinges on the anchor locker hatches. The poor paint condition was Sakura's most obvious deficiency and is the single biggest remaining refit task, so I began to address this in August 2024.

I decided to tackle the more complex areas first, particularly those requiring hatch and hardware removal/replacement. This meant the bow, the cabin top aft of the mainsheet traveller, and the transom and aft end of the cockpit. As of September 2024. the area painted may represent about 25% of the total deck area. Much of the remainder is open deck space and is more straightforward.

The paint was applied with brush and roller in 35 deg heat, in a dusty boatyard. Less than ideal but the initial results were encouraging. I painted at the beginning and end of day to avoid the most intense heat and sun.

The paint system ended up being all International products. with Primocon or interprotect 200e as primers and Interthane 990 as the finishing coat. For non-skid I will likely use Kiwigrip.

Removal of hardware

Removing the hardware requires some technique and patience, good screwdrivers, penetrating oil, a blowtorch, and impact driver, and if all else fails a good centrepunch, quality drill bits and a good quality drill that can operate in heat at low speed without self-destructing. Hurrying takes longer.

The hardware was typically insulated from the deck some kind of adhesive material with a layer of plastic - about the thickness of heavy (10 mil?) electrical tape. I replaced this with sheet rubber on hinges and latches, and fibreglass sheet (laid up in my shop at home) cut to shape. The rubber was a bad idea. Too stretchy. I made some more sheet fiberglass, and had to re do 5)3 hinges and latches. Thanks Robert. . Hurrying takes longer. The sheet fibreglass was perfect. Butyl tape was used for bedding/sealing and tefgel was applied to both the tapped hole and fasteners.

Preparation of existing surfaces.

To start, I scrubbed the area with a cleaning/de-greasing soluton. I found that an angle grinder with 80 then 120g disks was the best way to remove the thick non skid coating and to remove any mild pitting. I then learned that one of these silicon/fibreglass tools is as good or better for the first pass.

I did use a wire scratch wheel, and while it helps for certain things, it is not the best, and is certainly more dangerious than I realized. (I found many bristles embedded in various locations on my unprotected self hours later, like forgotten accupuncture needles. Thankfully no harm done) Due to the thick buildup of coatings and filler, this sanding generated gallons of dust. A real mask, goggles and lighweight coverals are essential. The yard guys weare a balaclava type hood as well. I wore a hat.

Random pics below.