Why the original lighting sucks and what I did about it.

In 2024 all of Sakura's interior lighting was replaced, significantly improving the appearance, usability and comfort belowdecks, while also minimizing power consumption.   Circuits were consolidated, and some fixtures can now be switched to red for night use.  

 While some of Sakura's interior fixtures had received energy-saving LED lamps (bulbs) to replace the power hungry originals, the lighting was otherwise original and left a lot to be desired.  Why?   

Area lighting should illuminate the area evenly, and adequately for its intended use. Task lighting speaks for itself, and accent lighting is designed to highlight a feature, or to create a different shape or vibe to the space. Each is typically used concurrently in the same space. Area lighting is the primary challenge in retrofitting a boat due to constraints on fixture placement, low ceiling height, and glare from the light sources, being necessarily at or near eye level. (Ideally, You should see only the light, not the light source.) Area lighting should be designed to be brighter than may be desired at times, with light levels managed through dimming. Additionally, being able to control each fixture can help manage not only the overall light level, but can permits the creation of different "scenes" which can add variety, shape and ambiance to an otherwise uniformly-lit space.  In some cases, colour or colour temperature can also be controlled at the fixture.  . 

The 2" recessed downlights used in the overhead areas were designed to conceal the bright halogen light source, and to distribute its light downwards in a conical beam.  As a result, these fixtures work poorly as area lighting in low-ceilinged  applications, where the conical light distribution leaves the upper portions of the space in the dark.   This is the dreaded "cave effect".   While such fixtures were a fashionable breakthrough for certain uses in the pre-LED era, they were often misapplied.  Fortunately, LED  light sources are easier to control (meaning, they can be designed to distribute light more effectively than can a reflector and bulb) and there are much better choices today in a similar slim, circular, form factor.    

The original budget RV-style fixtures used in the head, galley and navigation area also reflect the limitations of what was available at the time.     

What to do?

Most of the overhead recessed downlights were replaced with touch-switchable miniature close-to-ceiling fixtures.    The distribution (of light) from these fixtures is nearly 180deg and eliminates the cave effect. (The photo of the nav station shows this well.)    

Initially the nav station, galley, and aft head each received an upgraded disc-type fixture which can be cycled between red, white (dimmable), and off.   These work so well I added one each to the sleeping areas and forward head as well, as the red lighting could be maintained while sailing at night.  

Even though the new fixtures are wired as one-to-one replacements of the old, and are therefore controlled in groups by the orignal switches, the touch-switchable feature is useful because individual fixtures can be turned off, allowing for different "scenes" as discussed above.   The dimming and red options on those fixtures add even more versatility.

Alubat's use of screw terminal blocks makes replacement quite simple.   

Fixture Choices

Beware LED light sources with cooler or unspecified colour temperatures.  I chose those with 3500k (like halogen) or lower.  (Warmer)   There is plenty of information online about colour temperature.  

• The wall-mounted fixture in the forward head was replaced by a 2W elegant "sconce".
• The 3W red/white fixtures are especially well suited for areas where night illumination is desireable.  
• The remaining ceiling downlights were replaced with the switchable "boob lights" mentioned above - 4W 4.5" units in most ceiling areas, and 3W 3.5" units where it made sense. 
• I have also purchased 4 gooseneck reading lamps, but have yet to determine where they will be used.

Loads and Wiring

The interior lighting originally required three 16A breakers on the switch panel to manage the loads.   This is not surprising as the power-hungry ceiling downlights used halogen lamps, and other fixtures required two small incandescent lamps.   The upgraded lighting has a total load of approximately 70w, approximately 6A.    This is well within the capacity of ONE circuit.    

So, Sakura's panel was revised and all of the interior lighting is now controlled by switch #12 on the panel, which has freed up two switches.   This required consolidation in an additional terminal block in the panel.

The original rocker switches located around the boat operate as designed, and no new fixture locations have been added.    Now though, in addition to groups of fixtures being operated by a single switch each can now be controlled individually, as discussed above.  Each sleeping cabin now has red/white/dimmable fixtures overhead, as does the galley and nav station.   This should be very comfortable for night use, and create a more versatile setup for living aboard.   

Reading and cabin lights

Last on this list of interior lighting upgrades was these klassy little units.   :

At some point I will post brochure-worthy pictures of a well-lit and orderly vessel.  The change is really remarkable, particularly given the relatively modest cost.  

One funny thing I noticed when working on the boat is that the head sinks are actually translucent.  When lit from below, they glow.   

The original fixtures.

Existing fixture inventory

• 11ea 70mm recessed downlights. 
• 5 ea Adjustable spotlights (theoretically these are reading lights.)   
• 5 ea ugly fixtures, 1 in each head, one over galley sink, one at Nav stn, one in forepeak.