Batteries - LiTime - Buyer Beware!

June 2024 update

Gritted my teeth and ordered another LiTime battery to be shipped to Curacao via Miami.  Seemed like the best of a series of bad options. 

May 2024

It's when there's a problem that you really learn about the company you are dealing with.  LiTime  could and should do much better than this.  

In a nutshell, you have no warranty, even for a battery shipped DOA, if the defect is discovered in a region in which inexpensive ground transport of lithium batteries to the USA  is not available.     

As discussed in the earlier post, (below) I purchased 2ea LiTime 230AH lithium batteries, and had them shipped to my my freight forwarder in Miami, and thence to Curacao.  
One of these turned out to be defective, which LiTime acknowledged.   Unfortunately LiTime was unwillng to replace it without first receiving the defective unit back, meaning it had to be shipped back to the USA at my expense. Shipping would cost $631USD to airfreight from Curacao. (the only option)   The battery currently sells for $614USD.

Given the cost involved in returning the defective battery, (I sent LiTime a copy of the quote) I asked them to simply ship the replacement to Miami, and I would pay (again) to ship to Curacao.  I did not ask them to do anything more than deliver a functioning battery to the same location in the USA as they had originally.  My ask was that they make an exception to their  ‘return of defective’ requirement, given the cost.   To me, this seems reasonable.     Fully aware of the situation they responded as follows:

This leaves me  the unenviable choice of:

•  taking a chance ordering a second battery from LiTime, potentially getting another defective one and being out of pocket for TWO. (and still stuck for batteries)
• buy and ship one from a better supplier to replace the defective LiTime unit, and use both, mixing battery/BMS systems. 
• scrapping both of the LiTime batteries and replacing with those from a decent, reputable supplier.  

Litime has put adherence to policy ahead of taking ownership of product quality.  Frankly, using policy as an excuse.     Buyer beware!

Nature of the defect -

 liTime explained to me that  batteries cannot be shipped fully charged.  Sometimes the battery’s voltage drops below a safe threshold, triggering the BMS’s protective mode.  The BMS can be reset by applying a brief overvoltage to the battery.  Once reset, it will accept a charge.  I walked through this with liTime via email to confirm the battery (the BMS actually) was in fact defective.  Bizzarely, the supplemental documentation states that “ 85% of the time” this over voltage reset method revives the battery.  This leaves me wondering about their actual failure rate.  

I left a review, lets see how long before they take it down.

I was excited to purchase two of these batteries for an upgrade to my sailboat in Curacao. Unfortunately one turned out to be defective. LiTime was unwillng to replace it without first receiving the defective unit back, shipped to the USA at my expense. This would cost $500 to airfreight from Curacao. as a compromise I asked them to simply credit me for the defective unit, and I would pay (for the second time) to ship the replacement to Curacao. This was not good enough for LiTime, despite having acknowledged the defect. I now have the unenviable choice of taking a chance ordering a second battery from them, (and potentially get stuck with another defective) or replacing one or both of the LiTime batteries with those from a reputable supplier. Buyer beware.https://francesovni435.blogspot.com/2024/05/litime-batteries-buyer-beware.html

Batteries

Sakura currently contains 5 group 31 batteries, including one engine start battery. These are approximately 5 years old and have been in continuous use though that time. This provides approximately 250AH of usable house bank capacity. While this capacity may be adequte, the age of the batteries suggests to me that replacement is in order. This provides the opportunity to convert to LiFePo batteries, and to increase house bank capacity.

Which form factors best fit the 435/6?

The compartment is below the cockpit, accessible from either aft cabin, and measures approximately 27X23", with limited clearance above. There is  room for additional batteries elsewhere should that be necessary.  

Typical house battery sizes by convention:

-Group 31 Batteries:    13 x 6 13/16 x 9 7/16 inches (~13 x 6.8 x 9.44 inches, 330 x 173 x 240 mm), 

- 4D batteries: 20 3/4 x 8 3/4 x 9 7/8 inches (527 x 222 x 250 mm),

- 6D batteries: 20 3/4 x 10 x 10 1/4 inches (527 x 254 x 260),

- 8D batteries: 20 3/4 x 11 1/8 x 9 7/8 inches (527 x 283 x 250 mm).

"We emphasize these 'maximum dimensions' since some of the BCI group 8D batteries are closer to group 6D or group 4D, but they are still labeled as 8D battery group and similar."

The BCI group sizes are very relevant for vehicles, but less so for off-grid applications where mounting brackcts are not a consideration.   Thus, many larger form factor (4D and up, 20" in length)  drop-in lithium batterries are being produced that vary in width and height.  One of the challenges involved is getting these sizes in and out of the 43's battery compartment is the limited clearance above.        

This challenege was addressed by cutting down the side of the box in Maria's  very large installation.    Impressive.    She also provided me battery compartment dimensions at 56x76x23 cm.     (22X30X9")   Thanks Maria!   

After some research, I purchased 2ea of the following as a first step.   These will be fitted in Oct 2023.

Update - October 2023

The 2X230ah LiTime batteries arrived in Curacao, well packed and  per schedule however one was indicating only 2.8v.   The included literature and website offered no explanation other than to call or email ("12 hour response time") for direction.   After a few days and one follow-up email I received a reply indicating that the BMS was in protected mode and that this was common.    (so, why not document it?)  I requested some documentation of the BMS, and what was sent was not terribly useful.    

See update at top - 

DC Infrastructure

Sakura has a number of systems aboard, with upgrades in 2015 and again in 2023/24.

See my experience with LiTime batteries here.

See AC infrastructure here.

In the photos below, taken inside the portside cockpit locker,  you can see the Victron automatic isolation transformer (2023) on the far left, the 1600VA Multiplus inverter/charger (2023)  beside it,  the MPPT controller, shore power breaker, and a 220v receptacle.  This was an extremely tight fit in this space.   

Monitoring and Control

• 1 ea Victron BMV712 battery monitor.
• Victron CERBO GX installed to monitor all systems.  This provides a single access point for monitoring and controlling power, via the onboard LAN and remotely via the VRM portal.
• Connectivity can be made via bluetooth, Wifi, Ethernet, and a cabling scheme called VEdirect which uses JST PH series, 2mm pin headers
• The interface is through direct connection to a touch screen or via an app on a PC or IOS/Andriod device. 

12VDC generation/charging: 5 charge sources, shore power, two inverters.

• 2 ea Victron  100W rigid solar panels via a Victron 30/100 solar controller.  
• 1ea Eclectic energy D400 wind generator - producing approx 200-400w at winds between 22-28kts. 
• 1ea Eclectic energy Sailgen Eclectic energy Sailgen producing approxomately 200w. 
• victron Multiplus inverter charger - 70 A.
• 70a alternator with external regulation via a Sterling Power products Advanced Alternator Regulator..   Considerations for Alternator use:
• Confirm existing cabling size from inverter, alternator, and house bank.  Determine breaker size. 
• Determine charge profile selected on sterling regulator (AGM setting most likely)
• Can the sterling regulator be connected directly to the liTime batteries or is a dc:dc charger absolutely required?
• Consider disconnecting house bank from sterling alternator for now.  
• Document parameters for liTime battery for config.  
• Not yet installed is a Victron ORION 30a DC:DC charger. Obviously this device limits alternator charging to 30a. (around 400w)  I expect that Victron may bring out a 50A unit before long.  It is unclear what how much energy the alternator will produce in real-world operating conditions for an extended period due to heat/thermal protection. 

Circuit Protection at Battery box

Based on the info above, the following circuit protection should be incorporated, split into 2 sub groups due to space constraints.

1. Battery 1 (200A) 
2. Battery 2 (200A)
3. Inverter charger 1600w/70a (100A+)
4. Alternator (50a OK for today, if recabling, 100 or 150a)
5. House loads (125A per dwg, s/b fused already - where?)
• the above could be a sperate high current group, one bus bar to battery.
6. Future water maker (100A circuit)
7. PV (50a)
8. Sailgen (50a)
9. Wind (50a)
1. items 5-9 could be  second group of breakers, one bus bar linked to bus bar above

AC supply - shore power plus inverters: New in 2023/2024

• 1ea 16A 230VAC twist-lock type shore power inlet.
• 1ea 3600VA autotransformer (isolation  transformer)   This automatically detects primary voltage and will produce 220v on the secondary side.
• 1ea Victron multiplus 1600VA inverter/charger.   This unit provides 70a of battery charging and 1600w @ 220v with numerous related features.
• Victron 800/12/120 inverter.  800W 120VAC  - this is fed via the "house" wiring.  For future this may require a dedicated supply and breaker.

Batteries - 460ah LiFePo house bank  (2024) 

• 2ea LiTime 230AH lithium batteries.  Not yet installed due to product defec product defect.
• Group 31 AGM start battery.

Next steps.

• Install LiFePo batteries.
• Wiring/fusing/distribution to be brought up to standard. 
• Master cabin and head euro receptacles to be installed.
• Optimize solar output.
• Ensure all regulation is standardized for LiFePo charge profile voltages.
• Replace Sailgen cable and repair damage to yoke and bracket.
• determine how start/house isolation is achieved (diodes in companionway)
• determine how windlass and winch are installed and fused
• determine how battery switching works and re-label
• Start battery to be relocated to PS cockpit locker for ease of removal and jump starting as required.
• Adaptors to be made for 120V use.  
• install DC:DC charger.

Prior Posts and working notes.

• Most of the power related equipment aboard is from Victron, and most is GX-compatible.   This means that it can be monitored as part of a system and controlled though a GX device.   The CERBO GX  is therefore a likely short term upgrade.  It is compatible with the Zeus3 MFD as well as the on board ethernet network, and therefore should not require an additional display, though I believe it can display to a generic touch-screen.  (USB/hdmi).   

Connections can be made several ways, including a proprietary(ish) 4 wire system called VEdirect - using JST PH 2.0 4 wire connectors.   (2mm).   I had a crimper abaord for "dupont" connectors, and ordered some loose strip-fed terminals - didnt work, not sire how one can nand-terminate those,  Ordered pre-terminated pigtails instead, not as elegant but easy to solder in-situ.

See link to DIY usb cables.  

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XSMwFWjhYYU

Connections required:

2ea ethernet from multiplus to gx and gx to LAN  DONE

2ea  VEdirect  from mppt, bmv, to GX  DONE

BT from the Orion dc:dc charger.  (Why did they not include a wired VE connection???)

 

DC distribution upgrades 

The +12VDC connections to the battery appear to have evolved over time and could use some planning, and correct circuit protection.    It would be a lot better to be at the boat to plan this however it is clear that the charge sources and various electronic items could use their own respective fuse blocks.  It would also be handy to provide for the disconnection of one of the two lithium batteries should the BMS require a reset.  

The electronic items could be managed via this device:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5028/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Cover

Pics from Oct 2023

Before:

During:

After

Tight fit!

Lower section with UK receptacles to be revised.

A few more things to make right.

Home made engine battery jump start port?

Paint.

 ugh.

Have been dreading this part of the refit.

primocon and seajet 117 were recommended as brushable primers.

I bought a gallon each of Primocon and Pettit EZ-poxy

Visited Atlas tools today and apparently this sander is the way to go.

Under construction 

JJ recommends SeaJet 017 or Primocon primer, Awlgrip with H3002 brushing converter for the hull.

Dealing with the failing paint will be the biggest job of all.  I know little about this subject.

Primers

https://www.interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/primer/primocon

Discussion on blistering, repairs

https://www.morganscloud.com/2011/05/01/its-painting-time-again/

Hydraulic system

May 2024 update

Now working perfectly!

The hydraulic system on the 435 consists of a pump which incorporates raise/lower valves controlling a circuit each for the the cylinders which operate the centreboard and rudder.  It has a reservoir for fluid,  (ethylene or proylene glycol)  and uses plastic hoses.      While the hydraulic system works well, it is prone to corrosion, particularly the rudder cylinder's shaft, especially if the rudder is left down and not cycled for extended periods.    More recent models use a mechanical system instead of hydraulics.

Hydraulic Cylinders

I've had an interesting experience with cylinders.    (Bear in mind:  The boat in the Caribbean, and I am in Toronto.)

I purchased the boat knowing the rudder cylinder had failed.   It was leaking and had a badly corroded shaft. I brought it to Toronto knowing I could easily find a hydraulics shop for a rebuild.  The shop I selected told me that the internal clearances were too tight, so (without checking with me) they machined the piston slightly smaller and rebuilt it (including a new shaft) for a reasonable sum.   It looked perfect and worked smoothly.   In Oct 2023 I installed it and it leaked.  More delay.  I ended up ordering one from Hydroem (via Alubat) to install in May 2024, and it did not fit into the upper section of the rudder housing.   The unit sent had raised welds whereas the original had been ground and polished.  Fortunately I had the tools and materials aboard to grind these myself.  The rudder, with its new bushings, pins, axles and cylinder is now working flawlessly. 

The centreboard cylinder was working and in better shape.     Nonetheless, I removed it and had it inspected at Hydrostore in Curacao. Erik told me that the clearances were too tight, but begrudgingly replaced the seals, warning that it was still too stiff/tight. (note - this was the second competent professonal specialist that noted this)   I reinstalled it and ordered a replacement from Alubat rather than risk a later problem.   The replacement arrived and did not fit as the flat section on the shaft was not ground adequately to clear the flanges where it engages the centreboard. Apparently there are two versions, and the wrong one was sent.  As the rebuilt cylinder worked fine, I left it in use, and will grind the appropriate clearance on the other when I get a chance. 
So I now have a spare unused centreboard cylinder and will investigate rebuilding the improperly rebuilt rudder cylinder.
There appears to be something dimensionally different about the tolerances in these cylinders vs those commonly used in industry.  Until this is understood I would only order from Alubat/Hydroem unless the boat, owner, and hydraulics shop are all local.  Why are they different, and what is the specification?

Pump

Once freed up, the clever combination pump functioned properly though there was some play/wobble/wear in the handle mechanism.  I elected to inspect and correct this.   It is best to remove the mounting bolts to get at the screw that forms the lower pivot of the pump linkage, as it is awkwardly located in a counterbored recess in the back of the left side of the pump.  Upon disassembly it was found that a cut-down M5 hex head screw had been used for one of the pivots.  It was simply sitting in place, not secured.   As a result it was bent and worn, and jammed in place.  ultimately, it was extracted and a correct replacement cut.  Fortunately the threads in the pump housing weren't damaged.   This M5 SS screw must be cut to the correct length and possess the correct 10mm threaded and 25mm unthreaded dimensions for it to fit and function as intended. 

The use of the damaged screw led to some wear in the stainless steel link.  See below for dimensions.

 The handles and screws will be secured with blue loctite.   I will add English labels for operation by guests.

Pump Fuses 

‘Pastille’ in French, referred to as a ‘fuse’ in English, this sacrificial disc is located in the pump and ruptures in the event of a locked centreboard (or rudder) encountering an Orca or other  submerged object, hopefully prevcnting damage.  (To the hydraulic system, while still discouraging the orca) 

Many have suggested that DIY fuses are fine in this application, some are more cautious.   Thought I’d investigate….

The beer can is made of .007" aluminum, punch is 1/2” in diameter. 

Here are the factory-supplied parts - .006" thick copper, 12.4 mm diameter

I doubt the DIY approach would be a problem.

Bleeding the system.

In order for a hydraulic system to develop its full pressure and function correctly, it must be free of air.   Hydroem publishes instructions for this.  

I had to install and remove the centreboard and rudder cylinders several times, and found the bleeding process to be simple and intuitive. (I didn't refer to Hydroem's instructions, which I had read and forgotten.)   By installing one hose, extending (or contracting) the cylinder by pumping, then installing the other hose, then cycling the system, most if not all of the air can be purged.   You can see the bubbles suspended in the fluid and hear as it enters the reservoir under pressure.  Any remaining air can be eliminated by a few reailse/lower cycles, with some time between to allow the bubbles to rise and escape in the reservoir,  and the fluid will appear clear and the pump can develop and holds the necessary pressure.   Easy.

Original Posts

Update - April 2023

As noted below, I was able to free up and disassemble the rudder cylinder.  Though I was prepared to replace with new, I figured I’d bring it to a local hydraulics shop for assessment.   It needs a new shaft and seals of course - estimate is C$300-500.  Much better than €1300 plus shipping, taxes etc.    normally such things go the other way. 

The pump was stiff, and the rudder cylinder nearly seized. The centreboard would raise but  not lower with hydraulic pressure.     Definitely not hardware store items, and clearly suffering from age and neglect.  I’ll offend other owners if  I call it an OVNI weak point, but it’s definitely a talking point for most.  

Hydroem 2-section Pump

Here’s a link to my January 2023 attempt to operate the pump.  

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gES-mjiD7vU

When I returned in March I lubricated the pump and it began to work freely.  I inspected the copper ‘pastilles’ and they were intact, so the centreboard issue lies elsewhere.  

Hydroem Rudder Cylinder

On my initial inspection, the  rudder would not operate with pump pressure and would only budge (slightly)  if the rudder were moved by hand.  With some cycling, it eventually ended up gushing hydraulic fluid from around a corroded cylinder shaft.  

 In my return in March I commenced work on the rudder (documented elsewhere) and managed to excavate and remove the cylinder.

  It was quickly condemned by a very helpful Erik at hydrostore in Curacao as it could barely be moved and not disassembled.  I brought it home with me.

Hydroem, the manufacturer in La Rochelle France, quoted €1300 for a replacement.  

Somewhat curious,  I sprayed a liberal amount of PB blaster inside, and let it sit for two days.  (Old engine trick…)

Though stiff, it could now be moved more easily, and with some crisp hammer taps I managed to slowly get it extended, then apart.  Much to surprise, while the shaft is destroyed, the rest looks pretty good. 

Perhaps it can be rebuilt with a new shaft and seals?

https://ovni-owners.org.uk/forums/topic/easing-stiff-ovni-centreplate/

From

https://ovni-owners.org.uk/forums/topic/hydraulic-hoses-for-lifting-keel-and-rudder-ovni-435/

 The exact hose that i have in Nella (2006 – 435) is Synflex 3031-02 1/8″ . It was made by Saint Gobain in 2003.

Saint Gobain was taken over by Eaton (USA) in 2006 which is also owns the Danfoss brand–its still being made and its measured in inches.
The internal diameter is nominally 1/8″ but more accurately 0.130 inch
External diameter is 0.340 inch
Hose is available from Eurohydraulics (https://www.eurohydraulicsscotland.com/) –they are super responsive and friendly and expect a shipment of 3031-02 to arrive in about 6 weeks

Its also available from the Hydrasun (https://hydralink.hydrasun.com/PublicCatalogue/Page.aspx?i=11001) catalog. But at present they don’t have any in stock and its going to take “about 6 weeks” if ordered.

Victron Solar Generation

Sakura came equipped with 2X100w Victron SPM100-12/3a solar panels and a Victron 100/30 MPPT controller, charging an aged 4X100AH AGM house bank.  These panels have kept the house bank charged while the boat has been on the hard and during my periodic refit visits over the past year.   
 

In May 2024, I finally decided to download the Victron app and see what the panels were doing, and was surprised to find that the two were typically generating a total of less than 100W.  50-85w typically, at 16-18VDC.    This at mid-day, in the tropics.   When connected individually, both panels behaved similarly, with each generating 25-40W.   

Am not sure where the problem lies.  

• Is this normal with these panels?  
• Are the panels failing? (identically?)
• Could tired batteries be the cause?
• Could there be an issue with the MPPT controller?
• Could the controller have been programmed in such a way as to cause this?

Many thanks!

Responses to the forgoing are:

• Panel is shaded, mostly by the wind generator.  This will significantly reduce output.
• Connections should be checked for corrosion.
• MPPT controller may be more efficient if panels are connected in series.
• A seperate controller for each panel is ideal.
• Bifacial or better quality panels (CIGS) would help.
• panels will rarely be at 90deg to the sun, significantly reducing efficiency.

A good first strategy might be to:

1. clean up the connections 
2. remove the wind generator 
3. re-wire panels in series.   
4. measure output with each change. 

Based on my experience with a 175watt installation on Windstar, I find it hard to believe that the panels are functioning as they should, but we'll see.

Panel dimensions are 47X21.5", frame is 1.375"h

mounting frames are 23 3/16" o/c

Eclectic Energy Sail-Gen and D400 Wind Generator

June 2024 update - I have ordered some Sail-Gen repair parts from Eclectic Energy, who were very helpful, responsive and professional.  The parts arrived promplty andd the communication ws thoughtful and thorough.   Thanks Peter and Agnieszka!

I will disassemble the unit when I return to the boat and bring the housing and yoke home for repari/renewal, and will reassemble when I return next time.  

https://eclectic-energy.co.uk/products/sail-gen/

Sail-Gen

To the fine folks at Eclectic Energy in the UK, regarding the Sail-Gen:

Sakura was equipped with this rather cool power source when acquired.   It was noted in the survey that its 10/2 600v boat cable was too short, and required more slack.  I had intended to replace the cable to accomplish this.

However....the unit could not be removed, due to previously unnoticed collision damage that had broken a locking pin, leaving part of the pin trapped in a self-created void worn between two parts, fiendishly preventing their seperation. I did finally get it apart by further damaging a damaged bracket, whilst attempting to remove its press-fit threaded collar. 

At a minimum I need to replace or repair:

• The twisted yoke that holds the unit.
• The transom bracket
• The pin used to secure said yoke into said bracket.
• various nylon bushings, and other normal renewal parts.
• the cable

Will need to know the parts required, and their cost.   

Many thanks!

Dave

 

Hello Dave

 

Thank you for your message and the photographs.

 

This combination of D400 and Sail-Gen does work very well.  If you are aware of Jimmy Cornell, the sailing author.  He fitted this combination to his yacht Aventura 4 with which he completed a transit of the North West Passage.

 

There maybe nothing wrong with the D400.  You may wish to read the manual before unlashing the blades.  If the original manuals are missing they can be downloaded from the Eclectic website.

 

As you point out the yoke and c bracket assembly of the Sail-Gen have suffered damage.  It maybe possible to bend the yoke into better alignment as the alloy used is malleable.  In this case you would require a new c bracket assembly 90051 170.11 GBP.

 

If you choose to replace both c bracket and yoke this is part 90008 and the cost is 486.62 GBP

 

All prices are exclusive of shipping and any duties/taxes which may be payable.

 

If you wish to proceed, please provide a full delivery address and telephone number and we will provide a proforma invoice.

 

Note the output cable used for Sail-Gen is of an American manufacture and may not be easy to source.  Also, we would not recommend opening the alternator unless there is a compelling reason to do so.  This is to maintain the seal formed by the cable gland on the cable and the seal between the two parts of the housing.  Given this it would be better to extend the output cable using a waterproof connector or waterproof cable joining system.

 

I hope the above is helpful.

Best Regards

Peter Anderson

Director
Eclectic Energy Ltd
Tel: +44 1623 835400
Fax: +44 1623 860617

Registered in England: No. 3883495
Registered Office: Unit 22 Sherwood Network Centre,
Sherwood Energy Village, Ollerton, Notts. NG22 9FD, United Kingdom
VAT No: GB 738 1449 18
If you are not the intended recipient, please notify us and delete this e-mail.
www.eclectic-energy.co.uk www.duogen.co.uk

The unit, locked together by a piece of broken pin.

The void worn by the broken pin.
 

The broken pin itself, the hollow it wore into the bracket, and the broken press-fit threaded collar

The bent yoke.   One arm is quite distorted.  The unit still pivoted on its yoke.

Refit: Running Rigging

Rope

The lines were in various states of aging, fraying, and chafing.  No ends were ever whipped and lines have been left exposed to tropical UV and tradewinds since she was put on the hard in early 2022, and probably since her 2019 refit.   Best to replace prior to launch and keep anything decent to repurpose or as spares.  

The OVNI bible has a list of running rigging (images below) which translates into the table below.   The colour choices are mine.   Will order this material and consolidate with the refit shipment.   I welcome any thoughts!

Other rigging 

Z-Spars suppied much of the rigging on Sakura.   A link to their very basic website.

Z-Spars is represented in NA by US-Spars in Gainesville FL.  I found them to be somewhat unresponsive to emails at first, and to make matters worse they made an order picking error for some vang parts shipped to Curacao.  Frustrating, however when advised of this they responded like we'd wish all businesses did, and immediately sent me the correct part.  Bravo!

Blocks

The blocks are faded but otherwise appear to be in decent shape, though there have been some random additions/replacements.   

Base of Mast 

• 4ea  (2 per side) Z-Spars 80mm swivel blocks, Ref: 302, with swivel and M10 bolt mount through mast collar.  
• 1ea 2" barton block, swivel, shackle mounted.  Owner added.
• 1ea barton snatch block.  Owner added.

SS, looking aft.  (Duct tape was another owner addition, since removed and cable chafe protection added.)

PS, looking aft

Note  70mm Wichard block with swivel and becket below vang, for vang control line.  I do not believe becket is used. Vang has since been rebuilt.

80mm blocks - I believe these are for the main halyard, reefing lines and outhaul.  

2" barton block, and 2" snatch block.   Not sure what these are for.  They are forward of the main 80mm blocks, so mast exits will probably tell the story.   I have better quality replacements already aboard, but may opt for the boring-looking but reliable Z-spar units.   

Mainsheet system

I have shiny new Garhauer replacements for these.